Sunday brunch at Taylor’s Kitchen is warm, nuanced and punctuated with charm. Not unlike the ever-changing basket of homemade pastries from Pastry Chef Jodie Chavious! Think: Guinness black bottom cupcakes, apple and sour cream muffins with streusel, and the life-changing Hummingbird Bunt Cake (plucked from a Depression-era Southern recipe book).
Mulvaney's B&L
Some dining experiences involve great food. Others, impeccable service. There are those with charming décor and nuanced detail, inventive menus and effortlessly executed panache.
And then there are some that do it all. And do it well.
Sacramento’s Zagat-rated Mulvaney’s B&L is just that place.
My SacFoodies cohort Liz Conant has written about this local gem before. But because Mulvaney’s features a living, breathing menu with seasonal and mid-seasonal shake-ups all the time, I thought it was high time for a check-in.
Tucked away like some rare and unassuming book on 19th Street in midtown, this epicurean epicenter feels like it simply billowed to life one afternoon by the soft whispers of two disparate, though intrinsically linked spirits: the brilliant mind of chef-owner Patrick Mulvaney and the very real, very potent magic of the 1893 firehouse in which it sits.
Humming with energy and verve, the interior space sits about 50 lucky diners, though soaring ceilings and a bustling open kitchen let the space breathe flawlessly with the full energy of its often at-capacity crowd. Shelves chock-full of cookbooks, tasteful floral arrangements and quirky details like a dangling witch figurine lend irreverence, warmth and a disarming sense of familiarity.
It’s as if you’ve sat down to dinner at the home of your slightly eccentric aunt and uncle. Who also happen to cook unbelievably well.
Truth be told, my inaugural visit to Mulvaney’s was like approaching hallowed ground.
Luckily, I had three other dining partners with whom I could make the pilgrimage. And while I certainly enjoyed their company, it was the opportunity to “Ooh” and “Ahh” over that many more courses of plated art that I truly counted as my blessing that night.
Speaking of which, the food.
Justin’s Chicken & Wild Rice Soup
I have no idea who this Justin is. But apparently he’s in the business of making great soups. And that’s saying a lot, coming from someone who almost never thinks to order soup when eating out. I typically drink my appetizer—if you know what I mean. That said, I decided to make the most of my Mulvaney’s adventure and try something different.
And I was pleasantly surprised. The broth was quite flavorful and nuanced with an undeniable tone of earthiness that I loved. I like my salt, but the sodium profile was remarkably well-balanced here, lending delicacy and finesse to each taste. A sculpted pile of pommes frites floated atop this savory lake, providing additional texture and depth, too.
Seared Sonoma Foie Gras with House Made Cinnamon Churro
Oh hey, churro. What are you doing here? Complementing every bite of this luxurious foie gras? Of course you are.
My favorite part about foie gras is the texture. It feels like edible silk on the tongue, so sinfully decadent and saturated with flavor. I have to say I was a little perplexed to see it paired on the menu with a State Fair all-star like our dear churro here. But with recent food trends taking low-brow staples and elevating them to the gourmet palate, I knew I was in for a treat. And paired with the apple and currant compote, this could very well have succeeded as its own dessert (albeit with vanilla ice cream, thank you).
But something magical happened. When paired with bites of this expertly seared foie gras, the effect was heavenly: equal parts tart, sweet, buttery—wrapped in an all-encompassing savory bow. The dish is listed under the menu’s “Small Plates” section, though I would recommend sharing with a partner as an appetizer. This should be experienced with someone else so you can both marvel at the surprising harmony of flavors.
Grilled Beeler’s Pork Chop with Arugula Salsa Verde
Hello, lover. Yes, this happened. And it was amazing. I was a little nervous that the sheer size of this chop would make for an uneven cooking. I mean, look at the size of this guy.
But it came out perfectly medium rare, succulent, juicy. Divine. Crowned with a colorful topping of arugula salsa verde, the cut also floated on a bed of creamy, house-made grits that I could not stop eating. Seriously. I don’t know what it is with me and grits, but as far as my taste buds are concerned, they are the plat du jour of life at the moment. And these fluffy, buttery, perfectly textured offerings from Mulvaney’s were everything and more. The side of Romanesco broccoli added a nice splash of color and helped balance the heartiness of the plate, too. It’s nice when the side dishes are just as amazing as the star, but never hog the total spotlight. A showstopper, through and through.
Valrhona Ding Dong
If that charismatic churro was any indication, I knew I was in for a real treat for the actual dessert. This playful presentation of devil’s food cake, mousse and ganache is a signature menu item, and for good reason. Perfectly unfussy, but expertly executed, this luscious little number rang all our bells. And this photo hardly does this Hostess homage any justice. I wanted to bathe in that glaze.
In all, a truly memorable experience. For a Sacramentan and a foodie, this felt like a long-overdue rite of passage. And one I look forward to reliving anew this spring when the menu changes, the weather improves, and the restaurant’s outdoor patio beckons.
Earlier, I equated Mulvaney’s B&L to a rare book tucked unassumingly away into the folds of the midtown grid. With all the restaurant’s character and charm, I shouldn’t have been so surprised to find that the check was actually delivered between the pages of an old book.
Also not surprising? The earnest praise and gratitude written between the pages of this tattered tome from countless other diners, through the years, who seemed as equally enchanted with their experience as I was.
Mulvaney’s B&L
1215 19th St.
Sacramento, CA 95811
(916) 441-6022
Midtown Deli
Irony? Midtown Deli isn’t actually located in Midtown—at least not according to this Grid snob.
But that’s OK.
Because while the eatery sits perched caddy-corner to the Sacramento Natural Foods Co-op at the tastefully gentrified intersection of Alhambra Boulevard and S Street, its no-frills, laid-back attitude still embodies some of the essentials of Midtown living. And that’s just how I like it.
Opened in June 2011 by owner Butch Plank, the space sits at the foot of the new Alexan Midtown property. In fact, inspiration to open Midtown Deli struck when Butch—a contractor by day—was installing some finishing touches on the chic, semi-urban apartment complex last year. With new storefront space ready for lease, he jumped at the chance to offer area residents and nine-to-fivers access to quick and easy deli fare with a decidedly local flair.
Inside, you’re met with tall ceilings, grass green and stainless-steel accents, plus a super friendly staff. Sacramentans will surely crack a smile with menu items that pay homage to local landmarks, neighborhoods and happenings.
Case in point: The American River Wrap (turkey, hummus, olives, tomatoes), The Light Rail Sandwich (chicken breast, mozzarella, bacon, ranch) and even The 2nd Saturday Panini (spinach, feta, tomatoes and olives).
But on this chilly, mid-week and mid-winter afternoon, I decided The River Cat is where it’s at. The gist: a wheat panini, featuring chicken breast, gooey pepper Jack cheese, bacon, BBQ sauce, Tabasco and peppers. Truth be told, it was just the kick I needed.
Midtown Deli also offers a generous daily Happy Hour running 4 p.m. till close. Come springtime, I could definitely see myself enjoying the sunny weather on the enclosed patio with a cold pint of Blue Moon, Sierra Nevada or Lagunitas IPA, plus a great view of the comings and goings along the Alhambra Corridor (Al-Co? The AC?).
Free Wi-Fi and a pair of 55-inch flat screens round out the amenities and make this a great spot to catch up on emails or the latest game (go Niners!). Digital denizens would also be well advised to keep up with Midtown Deli’s Facebook, Twitter and Foursquare channels for free sandwiches, soft drinks and T-shirts, too.
All in all, a fun, casual lunch spot bursting with local pride and insouciant charm. Also: Party trays!
Midtown Deli
1899 Alhambra Boulevard
Sacramento, CA 95816
(916) 737-5776
Second Wednesday Tastings at INK: Bacon Edition
I have dreamt of bacon.
Just soak in that declaration for a minute. Because while that sentence could very well serve as the working title of my memoirs, it’s also an unabashedly true statement in my life.
Yes, bacon. That salty, slightly crisp, crackling strip of heaven! Whose visions haunt me even now with their lotus charm.
So you can imagine my luck (nay, ecstasy) when I got the chance to attend one of INK Eats & Drinks’ Second Wednesday tastings. They offer a monthly tasting of different types of beverages, like martinis, margaritas, gimlets, beers and wine. Only for the first time, the late-night hot spot threw a food pairing in the mix: bacon.
And just like that, my dreams came true.
What followed was a tender waltz through five small, bacon-themed courses that paired each plate with an inventive drink also infused with the cured meat. Sad you missed it? You’re in luck!
INK will hold an encore Bacon Tasting at its sister restaurant, House Kitchen & Bar, on January 31 from 6-8 p.m. Why am I telling you this so far in advance? Because spots fill up incredibly fast. The menu will be similar in nature, but more suited to House’s culinary talents (and include bacon beer!).
For reservations, call (916) 498-9924 or email [email protected].
And so, without further ado, a photographic journey documenting my trip down the Highway to Hog Heaven. With a designated driver, of course.
First Course
BLT Cocktail: Bacon-infused vodka with muddled grape tomatoes, served up with a baby romaine garnish
Food: Baby romaine salad with blue cheese crumbles and black pepper vinaigrette
What looks like a simple Bloody Mary in stilettos tasted much lighter than you’d expect, considering the opacity of the mix. The drink really picked up the fresh, almost sweet flavor of the grape tomatoes with a light, smoky finish thanks to the bacon-infused vodka. The salad greens and bits of blue cheese helped round things off, though I probably would’ve thrown in a dash of salt, for good measure.
Second Course
The Butcher: Jerky-soaked Bacardi Anejo with pineapple, honey syrup and finished with a flamed orange
Food: Bacon parmesan spread with chives on crostini
Hands down my favorite drink of the night. And because I know you’re probably wondering what a flamed orange is, here’s the sitch: an orange slice was heated with a lighter against the rind for a few seconds, then turned over and squeezed against the flame, causing a spark as citrus oils and vapors ignited and distributed over the top of the liquid. This creates a savory, but surprisingly sweet and tropical quality. Almost Caribbean! Fruitiness made a nice contrast to the thick, savory taste of the crostini spread.
Third Course
Meat & Potato Martini: Ultimat vodka martini with hints of savory flavors
Food: Chicken-fried bacon and mashed red potatoes with gravy
Not my favorite drink of the night, but an intriguing concoction nonetheless. It was memorably different. Even my scribbled notes say something to the effect of “Thanksgiving in a glass” and “alcoholic gravy, but in a good way!” So while the drink was a tad overwhelming for some, I can say that the consistency was light enough to allow my taste buds sip after curious sip. Those “savory flavors” were an interesting mélange of house-made au jus, bitters, Worcestershire sauce and a touch of half-and-half for creaminess. Inventive, sure. But a bit heavy when paired with the ambrosial chicken-fried bacon and mashed potatoes. I mean, look at that bacon. I kind of lost my mind when it was placed in front of me, all crisp and lightly fried. Resting on a down-like bed of expertly whipped red potatoes, this was by far my favorite dish of the night.
Fourth Course
Babe and Blackberry: Bacon-infused Bulleit Rye Whiskey with blackberries, honey syrup and orange bitters
Food: Goat cheese-stuffed dates wrapped in bacon
It was a great first date—and second and third. In fact, it was the pairing itself that really made this course my favorite of the night. The sweetness of the date, the sharpness of the cheese, all wrapped in a taught little Snuggie made of bacon. I would have been the awkward guy at the bar stuffing these morsels into his coat pockets to enjoy later. But these were small plates. INK was smart to pair this explosion of flavor with the light Babe & Blackberry, whose soft fruit melody was due to the Knott’s blackberry purée and interesting use of Ocean Spray blueberry juice. Not a stellar drink on its own. But when paired with the dates, haltingly harmonious.
Fifth Course
Bacon Apple Martini: Apple and bacon-infused Bushmills Whiskey with maple syrup and egg white
Food: Bacon Chocolate Cheesecake
This drink! You can imagine I was quite chatty at this point, so I quizzed the bartender on how one would go about infusing whiskey with both apples and bacon. You start by soaking the apple slices and bacon in the whiskey for three to four days. Then you remove the apples, purée, and add to the drink mix (basically, whiskey applesauce). The bacon is removed as well, while the infusion is then cut in half using the original Bushmills Whiskey to lessen the flavor kick. The result? Something equal parts subtle and complex, tart, kicky, yet smoothed to perfection via the frothiness of the egg white. It also helps to pair this little number with a few creamy bites of chocolate cheesecake dusted with—you guessed it—candied bacon.
The Verdict
All in all, a fun couple of hours and a great way to try a classic ingredient in five unique and inventive ways. The portions were small, so plan on grabbing a bite afterwards to fill you up. When making reservations, request a spot at the bar so you can witness the mixologists lining up each drink. INK’s marketing and promotions manager, Jocelyn McGregor, is super friendly and happy to answer questions about the inspiration behind each concoction.
The only downside? These word-of-mouth monthly tastings fill up fast! So be sure to call well in advance to book your spots. Here are a few upcoming tastings at both House Kitchen & Bar and INK Eats & Drinks:
House Kitchen & Bar (Last Tuesday of each month)
December 27: Champagne Tasting
January 31: Bacon Tasting
INK Eats & Drinks (Second Wednesday of each month)
December 14: Holiday Tasting (new twists on traditional drinks, plus goodies like egg nog and hot-buttered rum)
January 11: Beer Tasting
Cost : $30 in advance, $35 at the door, $25 if you sign up at a current tasting.
INK Eats & Drinks
2730 N St.
Sacramento, CA 95816
(916) 456-2800
House Kitchen & Bar
555 Capitol Mall
Sacramento, CA 95814
(916) 498-9924
Roasted Cauliflower with Dates and Walnuts
My earliest memory of cauliflower involves ketchup.
But fast-forward to 2011, where grown-up me has donned his classy cap and uncovered a delicious new twist on the home-garden staple that was a surprise hit at our recent SacFoodies Thanksgiving Potluck.
I know—more delicious than ketchup, you say? Brace yourself.
Food Network chef Claire Robinson is known for her fresh ingredient, less-is-more perspective in cooking. I actually had the opportunity to work with Claire earlier this year for a client, where her warmth and effervescence in person paired perfectly with her approachable philosophy in the kitchen.
Enter: Roasted Cauliflower with Dates and Pine Nuts. I stumbled across the recipe in Claire’s 5 Ingredient Fix cookbook. I also realized that my father had actually prepared the dish at a family Thanksgiving the year before, oddly enough.
And so, with the Claire-Family-Work synergy in play, I went with it.
With my own twists, of course.
Doubling the portions, substituting walnuts for pine nuts, and turning up the volume on the garlic were how I put my own stamp on this customizable—and insanely easy—recipe. What will be yours?
Roasted Cauliflower with Dates and Walnuts
Ingredients
2 large head cauliflower, cut into florets (about 16 cups)
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
8 tablespoons unsalted butter
2/3 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped
6 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup pitted Medjool dates, coarsely chopped
Directions
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Evenly spread the cauliflower on a baking sheet and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle with olive oil, then transfer to the oven and roast, tossing once with a spatula, until golden brown at the edges, about 20 minutes.
Put the butter in a small skillet over medium-low heat. Once it’s melted, add the walnuts and cook, stirring frequently, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and dates and continue cooking until the garlic and dates are softened, 3 to 4 minutes more; season with salt.
Transfer the hot cauliflower to a serving bowl, drizzle the walnut mixture over the top, and toss to combine. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary and serve warm or at room temperature.
Notes
- The original recipe only called for two cloves of garlic, but that just doesn’t do it for me. Dial it up or down, depending on your own taste.
- Definitely serve the dish hot. But if you have to refrigerate overnight (like me), nuke it for a few minutes before serving. The flavors were just as potent.
- Claire recommends sprinkling with the zest of half a lemon before serving “for a tart edge.” My next attempt will take her second reco into consideration, too: Toss half a teaspoon of chopped fresh rosemary into the butter and walnuts before tossing with the cauliflower.
Original recipe courtesy of Five Ingredient Fix: Easy, Elegant and Irresistible Recipes by Claire Robinson (2010).