Some dining experiences involve great food. Others, impeccable service. There are those with charming décor and nuanced detail, inventive menus and effortlessly executed panache.
And then there are some that do it all. And do it well.
Sacramento’s Zagat-rated Mulvaney’s B&L is just that place.
My SacFoodies cohort Liz Conant has written about this local gem before. But because Mulvaney’s features a living, breathing menu with seasonal and mid-seasonal shake-ups all the time, I thought it was high time for a check-in.
Tucked away like some rare and unassuming book on 19th Street in midtown, this epicurean epicenter feels like it simply billowed to life one afternoon by the soft whispers of two disparate, though intrinsically linked spirits: the brilliant mind of chef-owner Patrick Mulvaney and the very real, very potent magic of the 1893 firehouse in which it sits.
Humming with energy and verve, the interior space sits about 50 lucky diners, though soaring ceilings and a bustling open kitchen let the space breathe flawlessly with the full energy of its often at-capacity crowd. Shelves chock-full of cookbooks, tasteful floral arrangements and quirky details like a dangling witch figurine lend irreverence, warmth and a disarming sense of familiarity.
It’s as if you’ve sat down to dinner at the home of your slightly eccentric aunt and uncle. Who also happen to cook unbelievably well.
Truth be told, my inaugural visit to Mulvaney’s was like approaching hallowed ground.
Luckily, I had three other dining partners with whom I could make the pilgrimage. And while I certainly enjoyed their company, it was the opportunity to “Ooh” and “Ahh” over that many more courses of plated art that I truly counted as my blessing that night.
Speaking of which, the food.
Justin’s Chicken & Wild Rice Soup
I have no idea who this Justin is. But apparently he’s in the business of making great soups. And that’s saying a lot, coming from someone who almost never thinks to order soup when eating out. I typically drink my appetizer—if you know what I mean. That said, I decided to make the most of my Mulvaney’s adventure and try something different.
And I was pleasantly surprised. The broth was quite flavorful and nuanced with an undeniable tone of earthiness that I loved. I like my salt, but the sodium profile was remarkably well-balanced here, lending delicacy and finesse to each taste. A sculpted pile of pommes frites floated atop this savory lake, providing additional texture and depth, too.
Seared Sonoma Foie Gras with House Made Cinnamon Churro
Oh hey, churro. What are you doing here? Complementing every bite of this luxurious foie gras? Of course you are.
My favorite part about foie gras is the texture. It feels like edible silk on the tongue, so sinfully decadent and saturated with flavor. I have to say I was a little perplexed to see it paired on the menu with a State Fair all-star like our dear churro here. But with recent food trends taking low-brow staples and elevating them to the gourmet palate, I knew I was in for a treat. And paired with the apple and currant compote, this could very well have succeeded as its own dessert (albeit with vanilla ice cream, thank you).
But something magical happened. When paired with bites of this expertly seared foie gras, the effect was heavenly: equal parts tart, sweet, buttery—wrapped in an all-encompassing savory bow. The dish is listed under the menu’s “Small Plates” section, though I would recommend sharing with a partner as an appetizer. This should be experienced with someone else so you can both marvel at the surprising harmony of flavors.
Grilled Beeler’s Pork Chop with Arugula Salsa Verde
Hello, lover. Yes, this happened. And it was amazing. I was a little nervous that the sheer size of this chop would make for an uneven cooking. I mean, look at the size of this guy.
But it came out perfectly medium rare, succulent, juicy. Divine. Crowned with a colorful topping of arugula salsa verde, the cut also floated on a bed of creamy, house-made grits that I could not stop eating. Seriously. I don’t know what it is with me and grits, but as far as my taste buds are concerned, they are the plat du jour of life at the moment. And these fluffy, buttery, perfectly textured offerings from Mulvaney’s were everything and more. The side of Romanesco broccoli added a nice splash of color and helped balance the heartiness of the plate, too. It’s nice when the side dishes are just as amazing as the star, but never hog the total spotlight. A showstopper, through and through.
Valrhona Ding Dong
If that charismatic churro was any indication, I knew I was in for a real treat for the actual dessert. This playful presentation of devil’s food cake, mousse and ganache is a signature menu item, and for good reason. Perfectly unfussy, but expertly executed, this luscious little number rang all our bells. And this photo hardly does this Hostess homage any justice. I wanted to bathe in that glaze.
In all, a truly memorable experience. For a Sacramentan and a foodie, this felt like a long-overdue rite of passage. And one I look forward to reliving anew this spring when the menu changes, the weather improves, and the restaurant’s outdoor patio beckons.
Earlier, I equated Mulvaney’s B&L to a rare book tucked unassumingly away into the folds of the midtown grid. With all the restaurant’s character and charm, I shouldn’t have been so surprised to find that the check was actually delivered between the pages of an old book.
Also not surprising? The earnest praise and gratitude written between the pages of this tattered tome from countless other diners, through the years, who seemed as equally enchanted with their experience as I was.
Mulvaney’s B&L
1215 19th St.
Sacramento, CA 95811
(916) 441-6022
Archives for 2012
Wordless Wednesday: Costeaux French Bakery
The Breakfast Sandwich with applewood smoked bacon, avocado, egg and cheddar cheese at Costeaux French Bakery on the square in Healdsburg, CA.
Fleishman-Hillard Sacramento is Hiring!
We’re looking to add a new member to our food and wine PR team!
What’s it take to join us here at FH? Here’s our insider’s list of qualifications:
- Must love food and know how to market it – from writing to pitching to styling photo shoots.
- Passion for travel. We’ve criss-crossed the globe traveling everywhere from Italy to Miami to NYC to in 2011.
- Not only do you read blogs, (and look forward to contributing to SacFoodies), but you can rattle off names of top wine and food blogs from memory and know just how you’d pitch them.
- Nutrition know-how is a plus. We discuss Dietary Guidelines and menu labeling laws at our water cooler.
- Our water cooler is actually a wine cooler. We have multiple wine brands in our client portfolio so wine experience is good too.
- Desire to live in Sacramento for a long, long time (turnover is a breakfast term around here, not a reference to employee retention).
- Celebrity chefs and new cookbooks make you swoon but you keep your cool like any good PR pro.
- Digital and social media strategy is second nature to you, as is Twitter, Facebook and Pinterest.
- You’re intrigued by and experienced with fast-paced agency life.
Click here to read the official job description. Apply today if you’re qualified and interested in an exciting career in social media and food/ wine PR!
A Culinary Surprise
A good friend recently decided to mix up our regular monthly bunco-playing tradition by hosting our group of gals at Silva’s Sheldon Inn for dinner. The Elk Grove eatery, just five miles in from Hwy 99 on Grant Line Road, is dubbed as my friend Pam’s “favorite neighborhood dinner house.”
Her description is a perfect one as Silva’s is housed in a building that is more than 100 years old, and according to the website it was once a general store and busy town center back in the day. Once inside, this large farm house transformed into a cozy, warm environment with white-clothed tables on one side and a large bar area for more casual dining on the other.
Since we had a large party, we ordered in advance from a mouthwatering set of options – among them, petite filet mignon with jumbo prawns, almond crusted chicken breast, Niman Ranch pork chop and butternut squash pasta. I couldn’t resist the chicken breast stuffed with sun-dried apricots and cherries served with port wine cream sauce.It was immediately apparent that each dish was prepared with the freshest of ingredients, which I later learned includes some harvested directly from the Silva’s own garden.
This gem of a place was established in 1988 by Doug and Barbara Silva and features cuisine with French, Italian, Portuguese, Asian and American influence to surprise and delight almost any palate. In fact, the website boasts that it has been voted “Best Restaurant in Elk Grove” by Sacramento Magazine numerous times, and rightfully so.
I have to admit that I don’t get to Elk Grove much, so if you’re like me, you may need some extra nudging in the right direction down 99. I promise this dining experience is certainly worth the trip.
Silva’s Sheldon Inn
9000 Grant Line Rd.
Elk Grove, CA 95624
(916) 686-8330
Open Tuesday-Saturday for dinner
Lunch with Grange Restaurant & Bar's New Executive Chef
It’s not the first time we have been to the Grange – we have been big fans since it opened in 2009. But the invitation to come and dine with the new executive chef – Chef Oliver Ridgeway – got us excited about stopping in and seeing what changes Grange has been up to.
The atmosphere of every restaurant is so influenced by the people in the kitchen, behind the bar and running between the tables. Grange has come into its own with a level of easy comfort and intense dedication to quality that is reflective of the staff in the kitchen but also feels more like this town. It’s so…Sacramento.
Part of the change can certainly be attributed to the humble yet intense personality of the executive chef. As Chef Oliver sat with us, we were struck right away by his quiet charm, intensity for detail, and his extensive experience. His background is a travel/food lover’s dream – Australia, New Orleans and the Caribbean are just a few of the places he has spent time in kitchens, learning the craft. His last gig was as the head chef at the Anasazi Restauran in Santa Fe, New Mexico – a personal favorite of mine.
Despite Chef Oliver’s impressive global background, he remains dedicated to offering cuisine that highlights the sense of place and is definitively “Sacramentan.” The passion, the demand for the freshest and most local ingredients, and the obsession over detail was evident in every dish the kitchen put in front of us.
I loved that the head bartender came up with a seasonal new drink using fresh ingredients, and that because tomatoes were not in season, a roasted tomato compote was used in the burger instead.
Chef Oliver’s approach to regional food is by no means unheard of, but we are excited that Sacramento has another outstanding chef who is passionately dedicated to knowing the growers behind the food, insisting on local and seasonal menus, and is persistent in defining what it means to be Sacramento cuisine. We look forward to seeing what more Grange has in store!
Grange Restaurant & Bar
926 J Street
Sacramento, CA 95814
(916) 492-4450